1901-1953 Indian Motorcycle – Parts – Accessories

Shopping cart
  1. Home
  2. Knowledge Base
  3. Indian Factory Service Shots
  4. 1940 Service Shots
  5. 111 – To Remove The Spring Frame Assembly From The Motorcycle

(refer to illustration)

Remove the rear wheel and brake drum assembly.

Directly behind the top frame casting is a very small lock screw, counter-sunk into the frame casting itself. Remove this screw. This allows the uppermost chrome dust cover to be slid down out of the way.

Remove the one inch nuts (A) at the top and bottom of the spring assembly. Alemite fittings may be left in place.

Loosen the pinch bolt (B) on the lower frame casting.

From underneath the lower casting, unscrew the retaining cup (I).

Now get a piece of 2″ hollow steel tubing with a 7/8″ hole. Slide this tube up over the lower end of the shaft (F) that
runs from the top to the bottom of the spring unit.

Using the nut (A) that you took off previously, screw this back on and tighten against the steel tubing placed on the
shaft. This will draw shaft (F) down so that the complete assembly may be taken from the frame.


The unit in which the spring action is housed (E) is referred to as the slipper cylinder. The shaft (F) is known as the
slipper spindle. The nuts on top and bottom (A) are correctly known as slipper spindle bolts.

Remove the 2″ piece of steel tubing that you used to compress the springs so that the unit could be removed from the machine.

Remove the lock ring (C) on the top end of the cylinder.

Compress the top spring (G) by placing the cylinder in an arbor press or large vice. This compresses spring (G) so
that cap (D) may be unscrewed.

With the cylinder held securely in the vice or arbor press, remove cap {D) from the cylinder. The shaft and spring
assembly may now he removed. Use extreme caution in releasing the cylinder from the vice or arbor press because the springs are under very heavy pressure.

The top spring (G) is known as the recoil spring and is the shorter of the two. The bottom spring (H) is known as the
load spring and is the longer of the two.

Spindle shaft (F) should work freely in the slipper cylinder bushings.

The taper end is the “Top”.

The 7/16 shoulder end of the shaft is the “Bottom”.


Grease the springs.

Place the longest spring (H) with the large end toward the bottom into the slipper cylinder.

Take the slipper spindle shaft (F) and with the end with the 7/16 shoulder toward the bottom, slip it into the cylinder
thru the spring.

Place the short spring (G) into the cylinder with the large end toward the “top”.

Put cylinder cap (D) on the shaft. Place the entire unit in an arbor press or large vice and compress the springs in the
cylinder so that cap (D) can be screwed into place. Screw cap (D) in until the slots in the cap line up with the cylinder
casing (E).

Replace the lock ring.

Place the top chrome cover in position.

Compress the springs again by using the 2″ piece of hollow tubing over the lower end of the shaft (F) and pulling it
up with spindle bolt (A).

Slip the complete unit into the frame.

Slip the taper end of the spindle shaft (F) into the top frame casting and attach the top spindle bolt (A) with its
grease fitting, just enough to hold it in place.

Remove the lower bolt ( A) and take off the 2″ piece of hollow tubing that you used to compress the springs.

Screw lower cup (I) into place, but do not tighten.

Now tighten the top spindle bolt (A).

Now take the lower cup (I) again and screw it up until you feel it strike. Then back off slightly and lock into
position by tightening pinch bolt (B).

Screw the lower spindle bolt (A) into position.

Slide the chrome dust cover into place in the top frame casting and replace the small counter-sunk screw to lock it
in place.

Keep the entire unit well greased during service with alemite grease.

Was this article helpful?

Related Articles

Leave a Comment

Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: